Johnny Routledge snapped this shot of me on the way down to Jars... and I was actually feeling a lot happier than I look.
AJ at Licks Cycles kindly gave me one of their very popular solo saddlebags to try out on the journey, and I was impressed. They are made by Licks themselves of super-thick leather, with heavy duty fasteners and this one easily carried my tools, sunscreen, bungees, documents (the gendarmes are fond of big on-the-spot fines in France) and other bits and pieces.
I'm not a fan of the stock Pan toolboxes (I unbolted mine immediately) and this bag was a good looking compromise for someone who hates cluttering up their bike. You can buy one here if you like the look of 'em.